At Dolores tonight I will camp again, and hopefully...

(interruption)

It's now late afternoon and I am still in Telluride, where I secured a camping spot for the next two nights. Things change fast out here on the road. Here is what happened: As I was writing that first paragraph, I stepped outside to check on the 520, which was leaned against a railing at the entrance of the coffeeshop. I retrieved a map from the handlebar bag, to check the day's route, and a man of about 55 or 60 approached with a question.

"Where ya coming from?"

I went into my spiel, honed of two month's practice, and found myself in a conversation with the man, who introduced himself as Jim, a physicist from Arizona. The white-haired, sandals and khaki shorts-clad man said he was also the owner of a Trek 520 on which he had toured across Europe and Colorado.

"Great bike," Jim said.

Jim was staying in Telluride with his two kids, hiking and soaking in the grandeur of the mountains. He eased my mind about Lizard Head Pass, which I will climb on Wednesday afternoon.

"It's not that bad," he said. "You'll reach a crest where you think it's the top but it isnt, the summit comes a little further ahead, just so you know."

As is typical for me on this tour, the conversation soon spiraled away into tangents, and soon Jim and I were discussing physics, faith, and life. About life, we took stabs at its meaning, cause and effect.

"It's not about having a big house," noted Jim. "It's about the relationships you have inside that house."

I explained to Jim how I recently glimpsed the real brevity of our exisitence here, and the new trajectory the realization had spurred for me. He described himself as a scientist, a researcher with a PhD who was open to the spiritual, who believed in God, who experienced the blessings of belief, and who could see past "the idea that we can figure out the universe. Listen, if the laws of physics govern the universe and its creation, we still need to understand how the laws of physics came into being."

Jim had experienced an incredibly tough personal and professional challenge recently. A traumatic legal accusation of which he was innocent of yet which had held him a hostage to worry and angst for four years. It rocked him, hard. "Here I was, telling the truth, and I had to pay thousands of dollars, go through depositions, be accused of all manner of things, in order to prove my innocence," he confessed. He was eventually vindicated, but the experience seemed to have tinged this sensitive and affable soul, and I could see the reverberations of the trauma in his eyes as he relived it. "There is true evil in the world," he determined. "And America is sick, there is a sickness here that, well, it's everywhere."

I agreed that there is evil and sickness in the world, and no doubt in America, but I offered that there is also nothing to fear.

"I understand that," Jim said. "What is that chapter of the Bible? The one that outlines how senseless our pursuits are?"

"Ecclesiastes," I said. "It's the Old Testament, and it assures us that 'Everything is Meaningless.'"

"That's it," Jim said. "Let me tell you a story. A couple of years ago I drove to visit a friend who lived a day's drive away in another state. I didn't call him to say I was coming, because it was something I often did. On the way, I decided to stop and visit a certain natural site I had always wanted to see, and I decided to take a hike there. Well, by coincidence, at that same time my friend, the one I was on my way to visit, called my wife to ask to speak to me, and my wife said 'Jim came to visit you.'"

In panic, after several hours went by, and not knowing where Jim was, his wife and friend organized a search party to find him. "When I returned home everyone was shocked," he explained. "There were 30 people with backpacks ready to search the mountains for me. When I got home they were upset with me, but they were really relieved that I was alive and well. It showed me how much people cared about me. Let me tell you, after what I've been through professionally and personally, I can say that the only thing that matters in this life is the love you have for your family and friends, everything else is meaningless."

By the time Jim and I had completed the wide arc of our exchange, it was too late in the day to make Dolores, and so I mulled staying in Telluride another night. I was loathe to do so because of the frigid night temperatures of this high elevation, a real bane for primitive camping. Having phone-related work to accomplish in the next two days, and with the better part of the day waned away in discussion with my new friend, I determined it wise to stay in Telluride where I could rely on cell phone service and plentiful WiFi connections to enable the work. And so I'm here for two more nights. Lizard Head Pass, Utah, and the rest of the west, can wait.

To solve the problem of the frigid night temperatures I will surely face again, I went to a spot in town where there is a bin called the Free Box, where people drop off unwanted clothing, objects, supplies, materials and odd and ends for others to claim and use for free. I saw people perusing the bin when I arrived, and so I did the same. I needed to find something that would keep me warm when the temperature sinks to 45 degrees fahrenheit at night. Just under some childrens' clothing I found a big blanket. I took the blanket back to my campsite. I'll return the blanket to the Free Box when I pedal out of town on Wednesday afternoon.

Telluride exists for fun. There is no other purpose to visit or stay here. In the mid 1800s it was a town of brothels. There were supposedely hundreds of prostitutes at work. These days the fun comes in tamer, but no less exhilerating, fashion. There is fun on the ski slopes, fun on the mountain biking and hiking trails, and fun in the town's bars, restaurants, cafes and gift shops.

Named for tellurium, an metalloid found along gold and silver deposits which has been mined here since the 1800s, the 5,000-population town is trapped in a box canyon, with only one road going in and out. Towering rock-faced mountains surround the town, where ski trails are veined all throughout the Ponderosa pine-covered slopes. Gondolas and ski lifts cut along the mountain faces. The main thoroughfare through town, Colorado Avenue, is lined with high-end shops all catered to the outdoorsy, wealthy, hip, and fun-seeking tourists which flock here by the thousands throughout the seasons. The town is about ten blocks long and six blocks wide. Homes are quaint in a modern Switzerland mountain cottage type of style. Architects, it seems, contend to exhibit the most angular and daring designs possible. Many are ski-lodge condos featuring natural wood finishes and high-arched roofs intended to deflect the big snows the town faces in winter. The restaurants, all filled with retirees in designer dresses or polo shirts, pressed khaki pants, and shiny loafers, look plucked straight out of SoHo in Manhattan, or West Palm Beach, Florida. Interspersed are cafes and coffeeshops targeting the young ski, bike and hike crowd, where reggae music and the scent of espresso wafts. There is wealth here, both in monetary and experiential measure, all invested in the pursuit of leisure. Telluride serves that purpose singularly. I wander around on the 520 feeling at once right at home and completely out of my element.

On the way into Telluride yesterday I met a man named Damon. A very friendly and charismatic man who gave me a ride the last few miles into town, showed me around, and offered to give me access as a guest to a luxury spa at a mountaintop hotel of which he is a member. A real estater, Damon has been in Telluride for several years. He was among the nicest people I've met thus far on the trek, and we found a fast and easy freindship between us. I took Damon up on his offer for the spa, and so today rode a gondola high up and over a slope to Mountain Village, a town at the summit of the box canyon that surrounds Telluride. I enjoyed lounging around in a robe, sitting in a steam room and a dry sauna, and pampering myself with lotions, aftershave and other luxury amenities of the place. I felt a bit silly in such undeserved luxury. This was as high as high luxury gets, and I was, of course, an imposter. But afterward, closely shaved, ultra clean, and smelling of eucalyptus aftershave, I descended back into town on the gondola and walked around like a tourist.

Day 2:

The blanket served me well last night. I slept thoroughly and warmly in the tent, wrapped in my fleece sleeping bag and Free Box blanket and wearing my hooded sweatshirt and pants. I awoke at 6 a.m. and slipped through the woods to the shower where I paid three dollars in quarters for a five minute hot shower. I coasted into town on the 520 with my breath fogging in the chilled air, where I'm now in a cafe called Baked in Telluride, swilling coffee and thinking ahead to the telephone interview I will conduct this afternoon as part of my work.

The sun is angling in over the mountain peaks and starting to warm things up. Here with my coffee, I read the town newspaper, Telluride Daily Planet. There is a story on the front page today about a 74-year-old woman killed by a bear in nearby Ouray, Colorado. She reportedly had fed bears for years from her front porch, and last week one of them attacked and killed her. I took interest in this story since I am camping on the edge of the Rocky Mountain wilderness, not far away from Ouray, in my little tent, set up just feet from a stream called Bear Creek.

This week I will meet up with my sister, Jennifer, and mother, Moya, in Utah. We will ride together, Jen on a borrowed road bike, and Mom in an SUV, for a week or so as I head west through Utah. They are accompanying me to show support for this trek, to honor our lost cousin Rich, and to share in the experience of travel and discovery out here on the road. I am honored they are taking time off from work to participate with me. We will have a good time.

We are inching closer to a total of $1,500 raised thus far. It would seem at this point that the $4,000 goal seems unattainable since the trek is nearly two-thirds complete. It matters not, as I am astonished, grateful and impressed with the amount we've raised thus far.

I have committed to the decision to abandon the Western Express route in favor of a shorter, faster, and safer route along Interstate 15 from Cedar City, Utah, to the Pacific Ocean near Los Angeles. From Cedar City, the prescribed Western Express route would take me 800 miles on Route 50 through the Nevada desert, over eight steep mountain passes, and across several barren stretches of terrain without services for 100 miles or more. While the route along Interstate 15 would include only 400 miles to the Pacific Ocean, over much more horizontal terrain, with many more towns and services along the way. The 800-mile Route 50 option, with mountain climbs taken into consideration, would realistically take three weeks to complete, while the 400-mile I-15 option may be finished in ten days or so. This would mean a difference in expenses of hundreds of dollars. It would also be safer, as the remote stretches of Nevada present the threat of running out of water enroute. On I-15, with Las Vegas as a mid-way point, water and services will be more abundant.

I will, perhaps, aim for the Santa Monica pier as my new finish line. Coasting out along that pier to the Pacific Ocean would be a fitting end to this trek.

until later...

It's Saturday morning, time for me to hit the road again. I am in western Colorado, having spent the night in Montrose and enroute to Telluride. The past few days through Colorado's High Country have been spectacular, in arid mountains, through winding canyons, and over high peaks of spruce and aspen.

After having coasted into a massive valley here to Montrose, a valley so expansive as to nearly reach the Utah border to the west, today I must push back into the mountains toward the 10,000-foot Lizard Head Pass. I have traversed some high mountains in the last few days, including the epic climb up Monarch Pass, a challenge like none other thus far.

I climbed Monarch Pass three days ago. Heading along the shoulder of Route 50 from Salida I started the push up the gradual grade that would take me from 7,000-ft elevation to more than 11,000 ft to cross the pass. The uphill incline was subtle at first, slowly climbing up into rounded hills of spruce and aspen. The higher I went the more difficult it was to breath. I was forced to pause every few hundred feet and hunch over the handlebars to get my breath. With five more miles to the summit, after having climbed for a steady 20 miles, it became grueling. The high-altitude air was cold, and even though it was an 85-degree fahrenheit August day down below, I had to don my hooded sweatshirt against the chilly breezes on the mountain. I stopped at a ski lodge just to sit on a chair for a few minutes, then pushed on. The last three miles I paused continually, to sit on the bank of the road and stare into space while I fought for breath, or once just to stretch out on my back on a gravel pull off. Ants crawled over me and I didn't even care. The final mile was even tougher. I felt like a Mount Everest climber who, with the summit in sight couldn't make it and had to turn back. Never before has a mile, a half mile, 300 yards seemed so far. The last half mile I dismounted and began to push. Rounding the final bend in the road and seeing the summit where a restaurant and gift shop were was a victorious moment. I idled around the shop for an hour, eating and resting. It was cold, and I wore my hood under my helmet as I prepared to coast the miles back down the other side of the pass. I didn't take any pictures, it was too demanding of a ride to bother, and the steady flow of traffic along the road, tractor trailers and 10-wheel RVs with little or no shoulder, made it dangerous enough without stopping to dismount. There was no sightseeing, only concentrating on the white line ahead of me as a succession of vehicles rushed beside. The ensuing coast down the other side was harrowing. I braked the entire way as I balanced precariously between the traffic and the narrow road shoulder. After coasting back into warmth, where breathing became a bit easier, I took a cabin at a campground for the night at the foot of the mountain.

A man from Texas was in the cabin next door. He asked where it was that I came from on the 520. "From New York?" he asked. "You're kidding right? You mean you rode that bike all the way from New York? Get the hell outta here, you serious? You gotta be kidding me."

The next two days took me back into desert climes. I made a 60-mile trek along Blue Mesa Lake, through Gunnison, over Cerra Summit, and finally to Montrose. Along the way I met a few characters, including a bicyclist named Doug, a 47-year-old free spirit with eyes as blue as the stratosphere. He said he sold everything he owned and hit the road on his bike, indefinitely. He spoke words that I too had uttered in the past two months, that people are "in too much of a hurry, working and paying bills, just look at them all," he said, pointing to the steady stream of traffic along Route 50. "I was an auto broker, with lots of money, but I just couldn't do it anymore. Now I live in my tent, biking where ever I want, working whenever I have to, and I finally feel like I'm living, no kidding." I gave him a Snickers bar. He shouted out as I pedaled away, "keep on pedaling brother!"

I gave Daniel the tour card.

"Tell Olivia's family what you did, they need to know," I said.