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The Life's Too Short Tour
(Since completing the trek I've been working on a book about the journey to be published in 2011. )
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Day 82: Off the Maps
I had planned to stay on the Western Express route until Nevada, but a mechanical problem has me abandoning the route today to ride to the closest bicycle shop, located in Richfield, Utah, for the repair.
A broken spoke, signified by a terse ping sound, as I rode through central Utah, stopped me in my tracks two days ago. I sat on the side of the road amid the desert flora and made the fix, easily replacing the broken spoke with one of the spares I brought from New York City, only to find that the spoke was the wrong size. A bike shop gave me spokes made for 700c wheels and not the 27-inch wheels the 520 is oufitted with. Next to a cactus on the roadside, I thought of Al Pacino as Richard Roma in Glencarry Glen Ross, saying "What you are hired to do, is to help us. Does that seem clear to you? To help us. Not to (expletive deleted) us up!"
I replaced the broken spoke with one of the 700c spokes, which is too short, and as such remains too loose to do its job of keeping the wheel true. The wobble could be considered slight, yet apparent. I've gone 70 miles so far on the ill-fitting spoke, my front wheel wobbling out of true the whole way. Today on the 54-mile push from Bicknell to Richfield, Utah, I must ride again on the bad spoke. There is a bike shop in Richfield which today lies 52 miles away, where I must remedy the problem.
From Richfield I'll be on Interstate 70, and pedal a half day to reach Interstate 15, to begin the fast run to Las Vegas along the freeway. Riding on an interstate is not the first choice of most touring bicyclists, in fact it's generally shunned, but at this point it represents the fastest and safest way to get to the coast, which time and budget demand. Fortunely, bicycles are permitted on interstates in Utah, Nevada, Arizona and California. I'll take parallel roads when I can. The highway won't be as peaceful or scenic as along the former route, but I've done my share of America's backroads and don't lament a dash for the end on the fast, and mostly flat and down hill interstates from Richfield, Utah, to Barstow, California.
My mother Moya, on her way home from visiting me in Utah, reported that the entirety of I-15 along the aforementioned route is more or less bicycle friendly, with several sections of narrow shoulder at Virgin River Gorge, Arizona, representing the only challenging spots between Cedar City, Utah, and Las Vegas.
I rode two times with a cyclist from New York City named Luke who I met in Telluride. A Marine Lieutenant, the 26-year-old from the Lower East Side is traversing the Western Express to San Francisco. We cranked out miles through Utah on two seperate occassions, once before the Mom and Jennifer visit, and once after. It was the stretch of miles before Torrey where I had just finished addressing the broken spoke problem that Luke appeared, coasting over a hill in my direction. It was good to have another cyclist with me, not only for drafting in the fierce headwinds we faced, but for company on those dual 60-mile rides.
Since entering Utah, three months into this thing, the nature of the trek has changed. I pedal each day mechanically, robotically, aiming only for the end. What was once a trek of discovery, is now a challenge of endurance. Yet, that has not diminished the rich experience or intent, as I acknowldge fatigue as necessary and inevitable on such a journey. In these remote stretches of Utah a new perspective has dawned, in which the epic nature of this three-month endeavor is more apparant than ever. It is hard to fathom how far I've come, how many people I've met, how many places I've seen, how many miles I' ve pedaled, how many days I've been out here. Yet I still have 600 miles to go, from here in Bicknell, Utah, where I am writing from a motel room, to Los Angeles. There will of course be another few hundred miles to Santa Cruz, but to reach the ocean will mark the significant continental crossing I've endeavored for since May. All this resolves the day when the Pacific Ocean makes the horizon, and the 520 is across America.
until later...
9 comments:
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Hi Tom,
Congratulations on your successful arrival in Utah! Just want you to know that I'm thinking of you and wishing you all the very best.
I've seen the pictures of you and your Mom and Jenny and Utah and they are great.
Enjoy the miles that remain.
Take care,
Uncle Richard
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Dear Tom,
When Jen and I rolled into Monticello and it was time to start looking for you along the road or your bike along a store wall was so exciting for me. We were near! Then alas, two bikes leaned against a little store - no front fender, could it be the Trek 520? We pulled in to check it out. On closer inspection I knew it was!! I was thrilled!! Then you came around the corner. You were a wonderful sight to see. All was right in the world, you were looking healthy and strong, and we were together.
Being the SAG car and watching you and Jenny riding together has got to be the best time of my life. I had so much fun. Thanks for the wonderful memories, I will cherish them for the rest of my life. I want to thank Jenny for making the whole trip possible for me.
When it came time to head home saying goodby was pretty tough but I know I will see you again in a few weeks. I hope you can get the right size spoke in Richfield. Be careful out there Tom. You are really in some rugged country.
BE SAFE and I LOVE YOU!!! Mom
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Tommy,
You are so understandably exhausted right now, and, if you're like me, getting pretty darn cranky. But very soon now you will be done and this crossing can be remembered in your home sweet home, unfolded at your leisure, in the company of your beloved Elisa. And it will be delightful.
The pictures of Utah, and Jen and Moya, are exceptional. Jenny is some kind of wonderful sister to have planned and prepared for this get-together, even to the point of training herself so that she could ride with you. You, Thomas, are so loved.
I do hope that the final days of this tour bring you some extraordinary surprises that restore and refresh, so that once again you feel like shouting out "life is good".
The chase to the Pacific is on!
Love you very much,
Kathy
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Hi Tom. Still think the eastern mountains are tougher than the western mountains? That never did sound right. At any rate, it's all downhill from Utah to California and then you can trade in the 520 for a surfboard. Hang in there and good luck.
Tim
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Tom,
It's amazing how far you've come on this trip. The little section of map you post to show your current location belies the unbelievable distance that becomes apparent when you look at a map of the whole journey. Congratulations on your progress and determination.
I notice the nice little town of Lake Havasu City on your current map. You'll be near by in a few days. With luck and good timeing you'll pass by Las Vegas at a time I can intercept you there for a high five, and good meal, and the offer of a comfortable night's stay, off the ground and with a hot shower.
My little girl is really hoping for a short road trip (uh, that's an understatement) to meet the guy who's riding his bike across the country. We'd be glad to get you across Vegas, and beyond the city traffic.
We'll be watching as you ride and write, hoping for an email telling us to head your way.
Ride safe.
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It is amazing how far you have come!! Los Angeles looks so close now. I am wishing you all the best on your continued journey. A strong tail wind and strong spokes that keep you pedaling to the sea!
Lots of love,
Elisa
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Aunt Moya - I can relate to your excitement when you met up with Tom in Utah. I felt the same way when I met up with him in Kentucky. I finally reached the parking lot of the Wal-mart in Berea, where Tom was waiting, and then all of the sudden, there he was with the 520 leaning against the wall. I'm sure for you, as his mother, the feeling was even that much stronger.
Keep going, cousin! You're almost there!!
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Well I'm beginning to see the light.
Some people work very hard,
But still they never get it right.
Well I'm beginning to see the light.
Hi Tom,
I'm just showing Uncle Richard how to post his comments. He'll be trying to post one when he returns home.
Love you,
Kathy