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The Life's Too Short Tour
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Days 30 and 31: In the Hollers
Saturday (Day 30):I left the Knott County Historical Society bed and breakfast this morning after another one of host David's overabundant breakfasts, and made it about ten miles through the eastern Kentucky mountains to this McDonalds where I've found the connectivity and time I need to update the blog.
I took a two-day stay at the affordably priced bed and breakfast tucked into a hillside of a Kentucky holler in Hindman. A holler, incidentally, is the local parlance derived of the word "hollow," a valley break in the endlessly rolling eastern Kentucky mountains where small communities of houses dwell. It was an excellent place to rest after the 68-mile ride from Breaks, Va., which demanded and depleted my strength. I was greeted in my arrival by David, the inn's owner, with a glass of cold ice tea, a custom for the TransAm riders who arrive over heated and tired at the inn.
After a dinner of pizza and a long-time spent perusing the guestbook David keeps of the many bicyclists who've stayed at the inn, I slept well in the large tent on the grounds reserved for TransAm bikers. I awoke to a breakfast of oatmeal, watermelon, pears, apples, and strawberry shortcake that was so large I barely consumed it all.
I spent the day sitting in the shade of a patio, hiking the trails of the grounds with David, and conversing with handyman Jeff and a volunteer named Lisa who was assisted host with upkeep of the mountainside inn. It was a perfectly peaceful day. For me it ranks among the best stays of the trek thus far.
I had read in other's tourer's journals about the marked difference in culture and terrain to be encountered once one crosses into Kentucky from the east. It turned out to be an accurate appraisal, but only in part. I left behind the genteel Virginia culture for a mountain culture which harbors much of what I had heard I'd encounter in the state: beautiful scenery, chasing dogs, an abundance of coal trucks on the road. I had been warned that eastern Kentucky was an area wracked by poverty, and while I did see some evidence of that plight, it was not as prominently evident as some others had described. In fact, my first impression of Kentucky is that it was just like the place I was raised in northern Pennsylvania: coal country punctuated by agrarian and mountain scenes. I guess that's why that part of Pennsylvania is sometime dubbed Pennsyltucky.To me, the scenes of small country stores, mountain-side mobile homes, some rough and tumble areas dotted with ruins of the past, some squalor here and there, mountain people who wave as you ride by, and the beautifully bucolic land, just felt like home. And so all those warnings of third world scenes and angry dogs were erroneous. Kentucky is just America, another aspect of this nation which is our rich diversity, complete with natural beauty that is sometimes marred by litter on the side of the road; and wonderful populations of country people that are sometimes marred by a bad apple here and there, such as the person who tossed and hit me with a bottle from a passing car in Hindman. But for the couple of rough brushes with the less-than-friendly, there have also been many more encounters with peoople who were warm, friendly, engaging and sincerely helpful. They won't be eclipsed by the bottle tosser.
Among them were the two coal mine suveyors Rick and Greg who befriended me at a roaside hamburger stand near Lookout, Kentucky. They spent the better part of their lunch break querying me about my trek, about New York, and sharing with me their knowledge of the region. It was sincere curiousity and friendliness that spurred them to approach me. When they departed they donated $15 to my cause. These men had been to New York City, and were impressed by it. They expressed to me an understanding of cultural differences, a contrast I was carrying with me right into the heart of their territory, their home.
In this conservative region coal mining is lifeblood of economy and culture, and as such there is threat in the form of environmentalists who plot to close the land-altering coal operations down. Coal operations are a prime target, as whole mountainsides are sliced away to mine the bituminous, leaving unsightly scars on the land. I passed through portions of terrain where the land had been rehabbed into rolling hills of green after coal had been extracted. "What we fear is Obama and Biden," Rick said. "This coal is the main, the only, industry here and what would we do without it?" Tree huggers, as he dubbed the environmentalists, see coal mining as contemptible. "I just tell them: if you don't want coal then turn off your lights, the nation needs coal and that's why it's being mined." Rick said.
One interesting observation is the richness and lushness and diversity of the flora and fauna in this region. I was surprised to learn that eastern Kentucky is home to a sizeable population of Elk. The massive animal was native to this region for millenia, but after being hunted to depletion in Kentucky here more than 100 years ago Elk were reintroduced in the region and now thrive. Elk Crossing signs are ubiquitous along the mountain roads. It explains why the first town I entered over the Kentucky border was Elkhorn City.
Interesting plant species abound too, such as a plant called Appalachia Banana, and another tropical-looking plant named Paw Paw, and of course the Kentucky bluegrass. Ginseng grows along the stream valleys in isolated spots. The herb, called "sang" by mountain harvesters, was historically used as a potent energy-boosting tonic. These days Ginseng is a lucrative export, and patches of the red-berried herb are protected feircely by locals. "People retire on what their Ginseng patches provide them," host David said. "You don't want to wander around in the hills here, people are protective of their Ginseng patches."
Here is how Wikipedia describes the state:"Kentucky is known as the "Bluegrass State", a nickname based on the fact that bluegrass is present in many of the lawns and pastures throughout the state. It is a land with diverse environments and abundant resources, including the world's longest cave system, Mammoth Cave National Park, the greatest length of navigable waterways and streams in the Lower 48 states, and the two largest man-made lakes east of the Mississippi River. It is also home to the highest per capita number of deer and turkey in the United States, the largest free ranging elk herd east of Montana, and the nation's most productive coalfield. Kentucky is also known for thoroughbred horses, horse racing, bourbon distilleries, and bluegrass music."
There are two more days of hills, until I reach Berea, Kentucky, where the terrain flattens out substantially. As I left the inn today I chanced upon a Bluegrass music festival in Hindman and stopped to listen for a while. The refrains and choruses of the country sounds have been echoing in my mind all along today's route.Prominent among the memories of my stay at the inn is the long string of white Christmans lights which David has strewn through the trees along the ridge of the inn's holler. As I sat there last night on the patio, the lights were lit, tracing the contour of the ridge, a long string of them, glowing like a pearl necklace way up on the ridge among the trees. David explained that those lights are lit only on special occassions, such as when someone in the town or someone in the circle of friends among the inn has perished. The lights are lighted as a memorial, just for one night, to memorialize the loved one who passed."Then who are the lights lit for tonight," I asked David."Tonight the lights are lit for Rich," he said.
Sunday (Day 31):I woke early in my tent at Buckhorn State Park, and broke camp quickly. I started down the road and found Internet connectivity at a general store here, and so took this opportunity to apprise.
Today I have two options: to ride 18 miles to a Presbyterian church in Boonesville to camp for free, or to push the 68 miles to Berea. Top on my list is the 18-mile jaunt to the church, to resume the push to Berea on Monday morning.
Yesterday's ride included three or four major climbs. I faded on all of them. A British couple of bicyclists who had been on my tail for a week now have finally passed me. With my need to stop and write constantly I am the slowest biker of all. Everyone else seems to be speeding along. I have work to do beyond the ongoing westward push. I met the British couple briefly at Hindman, and may catch up to them once again. I didn't take pictures along yesterday's route, suffice it to say that it was more of the rolling hills that have dominated heretofore. Kentucky's landscape is, in contrast to Virginia's ridge and valley terrain, like tin foil which has been crumpled up and then flattened down again. There are endless wrinkles in the land, like the mountains are scattered all among one another without ridge or range. That terrain is central to the culture here, it is what has formed these tight and plentiful valleys, the hollers. The valleys are natural places for inhabitation, and Kentuckians in these parts are identified by the holler in which they dwell. In eastern Kentucky, everyone lives in a holler.
One of my panniers has developed a substantial tear. That's a potential disaster. I will have to repair it somehow, maybe by sewing, or by using duct tape. The rigors of the road are taking their toll. Perhaps I can ask my sponsor for a replacement. I have put their fine product through uncommon rigors, and am not surprised at the tear, just nagged.
I am becoming more efficient at camping, wasting less energy in making and breaking camp. I slept a full eight hours in the tent last night, using my rolled-up tarp as a pillow, the first night of near-comfort experienced in the tent.
The meeting with Stephen is scheduled for Berea, on Monday or perhaps Tuesday. I'll be there on time and look forward to spending time with him. This trek is important to him, and his family, as I memorialize his brother, and so we share an understanding in this which is not replicated among the many interfaces I have on the trek.
Yesterday, when I revealed the brush with the bottle thrower, it sparked a firestorm from some of my family members, gratefully and understandably. They rallied to my defense with fangs bared. I had to, for the first time since starting this blog, delete a couple of the most pointed comments posted by them. My boys are ready to fight, don't tread on me! I am not happy to censor, but felt the bottle thrower had injected enough poison into the trek, and so any trace of him on the blog was unsettling. Also, more importantly, the good people of Kentucky I encountered are reading this blog now, and so gentle language about them and their state is fair and prudent. I hope the censored-posters understand my motives.
Yesterday I had to pepper spray dogs on two occassions. There are many instances of chasing dogs along these Kentucky roads, but most of the dogs are just running alongside and pose no threat. However, on two occassions, once when a large German shephard mix came barreling after me with nary a bark or wag of tail, and another time when a pair of pit bulls came charging too close, I sprayed. The spray was effective, and left the dogs shaking their heads in the grass. I felt a bit sad for stinging the dogs, but I had to be safe.Time to continue westward.
until later...
8 comments:
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Hey Tom,
Congratulations on officially passing the one month mark! What you have done so far is truly unbelievable. I'm really looking forward to what is to come.
God bless all of the wonderful people you have met in Kentucky, especially David for lighting the lights in memory of Rich - what a touching moment.
I apologize if our venomous comments from your last post offended any of the good people of Kentucky. We just do not like it when someone messes with our family. That's when we turn into pit bulls.
I'm looking forward to seeing you soon!
KEEP PEDALING!!
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Happy Father's Day to all the Dad's out there!!!!
Dad: I know you are always there for us! Your heart does shine through!
Gary: You are the most selfless person I know, you are a giver; especially to our Nick!
Drew: Spoken by you, "Every Day is Family Day!"
You are an Awesome Dad!
Stephen: You qualify as a Dad; the way you are with Nick, Owen and Mia; so generous, nurturing, and just Unbelievable!!!
You are all SO SPECIAL!!!
Love, Robin
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Tommy , I have to thank Robin here first, that was a very nice thing you said about me , I will be here for all of you , yes, love DAD. Stephen thank you for your card and email card , And Chrissy thank you for dinner tonight, cant wait to eat.
And thank you Jenny and Chase for the nice fathers day card,
And to little Owen who said to his gram , I feel alittle bad about pop being stuck, he is only three , what a kid, Locked myself out of my truck for over two hours.
Ok Tom your turn , its great to read your tour day after day , The light trail must of been touching to you , it was to us. Keep up the great job and travel safe, Love, Uncle Milt
And yes drew you and the baby , what a great dad you are, Happy Fathers Day.
Gary , you have been a great dad to nails, which is Nicks nickname . Happy Fathers Day
And Richie I miss the lottery tickets I would get today , keep flying with the other angels and having fun . Miss you so, love Dad
Uncle Milt
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“Sometimes our light goes out but is blown into flame by another human being. Each of us owes deepest thanks to those who have rekindled this light.”
- Albert Schweitzer
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Tom,
I just finished reading your last story(In the Holler) and it was wonderful. When David said the lights were lit for our precious Richie it was all I could take. The tears are streaming down as I write. I wonder if David will ever know that his warmth and compassion will never be forgotten? I will always remember that string of lights for the rest of my life.
It is good to know you are feeling stronger. Just think, the worst of the terrain is almost behind you. Good going! Keep it up!
So glad you are hooking up with Stephen. Somebody from home. Your cornerman. Have a great visit guys.
Elisa, congratulations on your blog award. You are a true angel. Love you.
Kathy and Milt, I feel your pain in your comments and my heart aches. I pray everyday for you guys to find some peace. I love you!
Love everybody,
Moya
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Hey Thomas, sorry you had to spray the dogs. I'm sure you felt just as bad as I have but they can be really scary, especially the one that didn't bark! I've also encountered a few meanies along the road, people yelling at me to "get off the road" is actually kind of funny when you're riding a narrow country road with no shoulder or sidewalk. The good thing is, as you're finding out, those people are the teeny tiny minority.
I don't think you are the slowest biker. You're doing this at your own pace and probably seeing and experiencing things most of the other riders are missing. Thank you for sharing with us.
Have fun, be careful.
Raquel & Jack
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Wow you folks are hard to keep up with. I'm quite certain that I am blessed to be associated with all of you. Wow. The posts are all so powerful and smart and right-on-target, I can't so justice with my responses here.
Hey Milt, thanks for the great note! Watch out for those keys left in the truck!
Raquel and Jack, yes I felt bad about the spraying of the dogs, but I had to be safe, poor pups. Thanks for commenting again, and thanks for the double donations!
Hey Moya (Mom), I'm damn proud of your presence here on the blog, and who knew what a great writer you were?! Wow, keep writing for us!
Robin, I love having you on here too. You always speak straight from Love, everytime. We're lucky to have you (and Nick and Gary!)
And yo Corner, you are a glue of sorts around here, helping to hold all this together, you are vital to this whole thing, a keystone, it just needed to be said...
Elisa, love you too much to consider describing...
I was so happy to see this post and know all is well. Glad to read that you meet some more wonderful people like David the inn keeper and Rick and Greg the coal surveyors.
Thank you David for providing such lovely accommodations for Tom and wholesome breakfasts! I was so touched by your lighting of the lights for Rich.
Rick and Greg- How sweet of you both to make a donation to the tour!
You are all angels!
Wishing you safe roads ahead and all the best.
Love,
Elisa